Tips for Reptile-sitters
by Bonnie J. Keller
Commonly found herptiles (reptiles and amphibians) in the pet trade:
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Green Iguanas
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Anoles (mistakenly called American Chameleons)
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Boa constrictors
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Ball pythons
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Burmese pythons
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Leopard geckos
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Crested geckos
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Bearded dragons
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Tree frogs
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Fire-
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Water turtles
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Box turtles (land)
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Tortoises
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This list is by no means a complete list, but shows the variety of reptiles and amphibians that people may keep. If your client has something not on this list, and you need more info than what they gave you, please e-
Before your client leaves, they should write down exactly what they expect from you, and details about each animal’s care and personality. They should also leave the name of their veterinarian, and age/gender/past medical issues.
Caring for these animals:
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1.
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With the exception of the frogs, toads, and salamanders, all of these animals need additional heating to survive.
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If power goes out during cold periods in a client’s house, these animals may need to be moved if a heat source cannot be found for them. Nearly all of these animals can be moved safely and easily in a large cloth sac or pillowcase. They WILL probably die if temperatures much under 70 degrees are sustained. Even the toads, salamanders & frogs may perish at temps under 55.
2. Snakes probably will not need feeding during a brief vacation, unless they are very tiny snakes. Ask your client
2. Snakes probably will not need feeding during a brief vacation, unless they are very tiny snakes. Ask your client
to feed & water them prior to leaving. If they will be gone for more than 2 weeks, than you will need to feed
Them at some point. Water should be checked every day, however, to verify that it is clean. Change soiled water
immediately.
3. These animals are generally NOT aggressive, though individual personalities will differ. Ask the client what
Them at some point. Water should be checked every day, however, to verify that it is clean. Change soiled water
immediately.
3. These animals are generally NOT aggressive, though individual personalities will differ. Ask the client what
to expect, and try to have them show you how to handle it prior to their leaving. If a particular animal might be
aggressive, or could escape easily, be prepared with a pillowcase or towel. As you open the cage, drop the
towel/pillowcase onto the animal. It won’t hurt them, and will keep them from striking or jumping. As you
finish your cleaning duties, take the towel away as you leave the cage.
4. Other than snakes, the above animals will need daily or every-other day feedings. Tree frogs and salamanders
should be getting 1-2 bugs daily, or as instructed by the owner. Some frogs and turtles may be eating pre-packaged
“sticks” of food.
5. Water turtles should have a large, strong filter in their tank. Otherwise, their water needs to be changed on a
regular basis - usually weekly. Ask the owner about this. RISK OF SALMONELLA TRANSMISSION IS HIGHEST
IN WATER TURTLES - just wash your hands after handling them or the water they are in.
6. Land turtles (terrapins) and tortoises need access to drinking water, but do not swim. Terrapins eat bugs and
worms, with some fruits/veggies. Tortoises are nearly all vegetarian, with a few exceptions. Ask the owner
for specifics.
7. Ask the owner to WRITE DOWN the species of reptiles that you are caring for. That way, if you need to call
aggressive, or could escape easily, be prepared with a pillowcase or towel. As you open the cage, drop the
towel/pillowcase onto the animal. It won’t hurt them, and will keep them from striking or jumping. As you
finish your cleaning duties, take the towel away as you leave the cage.
4. Other than snakes, the above animals will need daily or every-
5. Water turtles should have a large, strong filter in their tank. Otherwise, their water needs to be changed on a
regular basis -
6. Land turtles (terrapins) and tortoises need access to drinking water, but do not swim. Terrapins eat bugs and
worms, with some fruits/veggies. Tortoises are nearly all vegetarian, with a few exceptions. Ask the owner
for specifics.
7. Ask the owner to WRITE DOWN the species of reptiles that you are caring for. That way, if you need to call
me, I can better help you.
Any time you have a question on a reptile or amphibian, please feel free to call me. If you see a problem with an
animal that an owner has (not properly caring for it, etc.) politely let them know that my organization exists, and
give them my number. Suggest to them something like, “ VARR has some new information about your ____ that
might help your animal live longer. Would you like the number?” Leave my flyers for them, even if they don’t
respond. Most people who hear about us do call eventually, even if they aren’t interested in adopting. Getting
information into the hands of the owners is my goal. And, please, if you see outright neglect or abuse, don’t
hesitate to act. I had one housekeeper that brought me a ball python that hadn’t been fed in 1.5 years!!!! While
she had permission from the family to bring it to me, I wouldn’t oppose people calling the local animal control
and turning in abusers. If you do so, give the animal control officer my name and number, if they have any
questions. Unfortunately, most people don’t know what a healthy herp looks like, nor do they have any idea what
a sick one looks like. Calling me might make a difference.
Bonnie Keller is the Founder of Virginia Reptile Rescue, as well as the Founder/Past -President of the NH Herptile Society. She can be reached by e-mail at: info@vareptilerescue.org Or, you can try the old-fashioned way (telephone) during reasonable hours: 540-605-5640
