Setting up for your first reptile
by Bonnie J Keller
One of the things people ask me the most is what products they should purchase for their new first reptile. So, I have put together a shopping list for certain types of reptiles. While I hope that most people realize by now that animals do not make good Christmas or birthday gifts, there are bound to be some people who will do this anyway. I hope these shopping lists help you and your future pet. I don't mention many commercial names, except where I think it important. Keep in mind that these are guidelines, and may vary from one animal to another… Please call if you have any doubts or questions about what I have listed.
Tropical lizards & snakes (iguanas, anoles,common/red-tail boas,burmese pythons, etc.)
* cage - must be at least 1.5 times the length of a lizard, bigger when possible (iguanas &
burmese pythons grow VERY quickly when fed properly; a 10 gal tank will NOT
be sufficient for more than about 1 month. Iguanas may get to be 7 feet long;
Burmese pythons may get 21+ feet and will need a room-sized enclosure; boas
are usually between 10 - 15 feet and will need a very large enclosure as well.)
* lid - locking type for snakes; screen type OK for lizards; not the kind with plastic on
top, as it will melt when heat lamp is used. Snakes are notorious escape artists.
There must be NO gap between the lid and the cage.
* undertank heater - correct for size of cage; not to be used with wood cages
OR
* heating pad (pig blanket) - for wood/ metal cages
* heat lamp and Nite light OR ceramic heat emitter - must NOT be accessible to the
animal (will burn animal, melt plastic, may set fire to wood cages, may heat
metal too high)
* fluorescent light fixture & UVB - emitting light (Reptisun 5.0 or Desert 7% work best
for daytime lizards, ReptiSun 2.0 or Vitalite OK for snakes and nocturnal lizards)
* substrate - repti-carpet (not turf-type) or alfalfa pellet type; NO BARK substrate - when
digested it sticks and causes death; if using carpet, get 2 pieces so that one can be
cleaned while the other is being used
* plastic or stone-type water & food dishes - should be big enough for animal to soak in
* misting system or humidifier - must be able to keep humidity HIGH
* thermometer & humidity gauges for each end of cage
* food - depends on animal
* cage decorations - must be easy to clean
* hide boxes - one at each end of cage is best; don't use "log" style - it can't be cleaned
* up-to-date care sheet or book - those written by Phillipe de Vosjoli are usually fairly
good; check the copyright date - if it's older than 3-4 years, find a newer one.
* calcium and vitamin supplements
Desert reptiles ( bearded dragons, uromastyx, desert kingsnakes, desert tortoises, etc.)
* Same as above, but without humidity equipment; HIGH temps must be maintained.
People often ask why the UVB light is so important - let me explain. UVB light is essential for the production of vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is what allows calcium to be absorbed and used for bone growth and repair. Humans and other warm-blooded creatures are able to manufacture vitamin D3 with or without sunlight to help us. Reptiles can't do that, for the most part ( a few can), and so require direct sunlight or an alternative. Note: UVB is blocked by glass, plexiglass and screen - having your reptile in a sunny window will only help him with heat requirements, not UVB. Turtles and diurnal (daytime) lizards are most susceptible to lack of calcium. This will result in bones that are soft and weak, shells that are thin and easily broken, a condition similar to osteoporosis in humans. Without the UVB or replacement Vitamin D3, your reptile will become disfigured, weak, and will eventually die (a long, slow, painful process.)
Food requirements vary for each animal, so please research your potential pet BEFORE you purchase it. And, as always, feel free to write or call me for info about what you have or want to have.
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