Anole Care in a Nutshell

By Bonnie J. Keller

Q. Where do anoles come from, what makes them good pets, and how long do they live?

A: Green anoles come from the southeastern United States, Cuba, Jamaica, and other Caribbean islands. Other anole species such as the Cuban anole, Jamaican Giant Anole, etc. are found naturally in the same areas, except for the United States. They are interesting pets that breed easily in captivity, are quiet, and are non-allergenic. They may live up to 5 years.

Q: Can we keep several together, how big will they get, and how do we keep them tame?

A: Anoles do well kept in small groups consisting of one male and 2-3 females. Males have a larger dewlap (fleshy area under the chin), and may have a crest down their back. Typical size of an anole is 7-8", though slightly larger sizes have been reported. Unfortunately, most captive anoles don't live long enough to reach this size due to poor husbandry. Taming anoles takes time, and may never truly happen. Frequent gentle handling with slow movements may help them "calm down", though true "tameness" is rare. Newly acquired anoles will often bite, and may also drop their tails when frightened. While this is not serious to either you or your anole, it should be taken into consideration before handling your new pet. If you are bitten, try not to "jerk" away, as this may tear his teeth out.

Q: Considering their size, what kind of cage should I use, and what other cage accessories will I need?

A: This will depend on how many you have. One male can easily be kept alone in a 10 or 15 gallon terrarium. Groups of 3-4, however require much more space, as these little lizards are somewhat territorial For a group this size, try a 29 or 30 gal tank or larger. You will need plenty of climbing branches, hiding area, and rocks for them to use. Remember that cleaning will be necessary, so don't get too elaborate. Other accessories you'll need include a UVB-producing light bulb, such as a Vitalite, Repti-Sun5.0, or Desert 7% bulb. They will also need a basking light, an under-tank heater, and a drip or spray system (anoles don't drink from a bowl.)

Q: What do they eat, and how much?

A: Anoles are mainly insectivorous, and will readily devour any insect you toss in. Crickets are available at most pet stores for this, though a variety of insects should be provided when possible. If your area is not usually exposed to pesticides, try raking a butterfly net through your yard. Grasshoppers, moths, and other insects are easily caught this way. Waxworms may be obtained at some pet stores as well, though they should be used as treats, not a staple diet. While mealworms are often sold as food for anoles, they lack nutrition, and are difficult to digest. Remember, if crickets are purchased, they should be fed a diet of vegetable scraps from your home for 2-3 days BEFORE using them as food for your anoles. Also, place the crickets you are using into a plastic baggy and shake some calcium supplement and dry vitamins on them and shake them to coat them with the additives. Then put the insects (a few at a time) in the cage. This way you can ensure that the food you are giving your anoles are as nutritious as possible. In general, provide 2-3 bugs per day for each anole, unless you see that he/she is not eating them. If they eat them, and appear to want more, add one more at a time until you find how many they will take each day. Do NOT leave crickets or other bugs in your cage with your anoles without providing something for the crickets to eat. They may decide that your anole is good cricket food.

Q: What temperature and humidity does it need?

A: Daytime temps should range between 85-90 degrees, with a basking spot of 95-100 degrees. Nighttime temps of 65-75 are fine. To achieve this use a combination of under-tank heating pads, basking spot lights, etc. NO HOT ROCKS, as they have a tendency to overheat and burn your anole. Use a high-range thermometer in several places to monitor the different temperature zones of your cage. To achieve the nighttime drop, put your heat light and UV light on a timer. The heating pad can be left on, especially in our New England climate. Humidity should be relatively high, and can be achieved by spraying your cage several times a day with fresh water, as well as by using live potted plants in your cage. A shallow pan of water may be placed in your cage, though anoles will not drink from it. Make sure they can escape from it should they fall in.

Q: Why does my anole need a Vitalite or other UVB bulb?

A: Exposure to unfiltered sunlight or a UVB-producing bulb such as a VitaLite, IguanaLite 5.0, or Desert 7% bulb is necessary to facilitate Vitamin D3 production. This is the vitamin that turns calcium into a usable material for bone and nerve cell building and repair. So, without it, an anole or other lizard will quickly end up with a condition similar to osteoporosis, as well as nerve damage. Sunlight that passes through glass or Plexiglas does NOT transmit UVB, and cannot be substituted. When using a UVB bulb, it must be placed 12-18 inches from where your anole will spend the most time, and it must NOT have glass or plastic between the bulb and the anole. (The glass in the bulb is a special glass for this reason.)

Q: How will I know if my anole is sick, and how can I tell whether it is male or female?

A: Nearly all anoles sold in pet stores are wild caught, and carry various internal parasites. Upon purchase of an anole, a trip to the vet to take care of such pests is necessary, and will help your anole live a longer, healthier life. Aside from that, an anole that is healthy will appear active, alert, and have clear eyes. A well-rounded out body shows that your anole is not dehydrated or starved. If you see that your anole is thin, eyes sunken, or has black spots on the head behind the eyes, TAKE HIM TO A VET that is experienced with reptiles! Small red or black dots that move around on your anole are mites, and may be treated at home with any number of medications available at your pet store.

Q: What if my anole lays eggs? How do I care for the the eggs and babies?

A: Anoles breed easily in captivity, and this is certainly possible. Mating can occur during the spring and summer, and eggs are usually laid within 2-3 weeks of that. Eggs may be laid one or two at a time. Females prefer a dirt area to lay eggs, so if she is showing signs of being ready to lay eggs, a bowl of slightly moistened potting soil might be placed inside to encourage her to lay eggs there. She may lay eggs again every couple of weeks for several weeks. Remove the eggs very carefully, taking care as to NOT turn the eggs. Place them in a covered container with sandy soil and incubate to about 82-85 degrees. Check to make sure it doesn't get too dry, or too moist. Eggs take around 35-45 days to hatch. Babies will be about 1.5" long, and will require pinhead crickets or fruit flies until they are large enough to eat with their parents. Keep them separate from parents until their size is at least 1/2 that of the adults, or they could get mistaken for food....

Q: What are some good books I could use to get more info about anoles?

A: Here are some good references for you:

The General Care and Maintenance of Green Anoles by Phillipe De Vosjoli, Advanced Aquarium Systems, Escondido, CA.

Melissa Kaplan's Herp-Care website on the World-Wide-Web has much more about reptiles, including anoles. The URL for her site is:

http://www.anapsid.org

Another area online with care sheets, chats, message boards, etc. is the Veterinary Information Network's Pet Care Forum at http://www.pethobbyist.com

Keep in mind that reptiles, as with ALL animals, may carry salmonella. See your doctor or vet for more info on the possible effects of this disease.

There is MUCH more to know about anoles and reptiles in general. Please contact your local herp society for more information.

If you're shopping for anole supplies, you'll need:

Cage with lid 

UVB-producing fluorescent light

Under-tank heater basking lamp

thermometer/humidity gauge 

calcium & vitamin supplements

cage-liner (carpet) 

shallow water pan

climbing branches 

drip system or spray bottle

antibacterial soap

For more info about anoles or any reptile, please e-mail us at info "at" vareptilerescue dot org (Take out the spaces and " marks, replace the "at" with an @ sign, and the word "dot with a period.)  804-272-5324

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